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^Designing, Cutting, Sracting and Sitting 



FOR 



READY MADE AND 0_RDEH MADE 
ALSO DRESSMAKING AND FURS 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



WARNING 

8®" The entire contents both text and diagrams of Ratner's Up-To- 
Date Method of Designing are covered by copyright, and warning 
is given against infringement. Violations of our rights will be 
prosecuted to the full extent of the law. 



COSMOPOLITAN PRINTING CO.. 176 Blue Island Avenue 

I908 






LIBRARY of CONaHEi 

1 wo Copies Received 

NIAK 20 1 908 



Ol.rtS^ 8 






Ratner's Up-Co-Date method of Designing 



A WORD TO ALL, OUR FRIENDS. 



Our patterns are absolutely correct both as to meas- 
urement-; and style. We have given years ofstudjtothe 
perfection of our method and we are assured that our claim 
of a "perfect fit for a perfect figure" is fully justified. If 
directions are carefully followed, failure or spoiling- of ma- 
terial, is impossible. Each diagram contains explicit infor- 
mation as to how the pattern contained therein should be 
designed and cut. We ii;e the simplest possible symbols 
in making- and each new model is carefully studied before 
the directions are written, if the work of cutting and mark- 
ing- be done with careful attention to every printed sentence, 
success is assured. There can be no difficulty, for each 



piece of the pattern is fitted to the next with absolute ex- 
actness and care. Notches meet notches. Edges come toge- 
ther. Corresponding lines correspond. All it requires to do is 
to read carefully, intelligently and faithfully, to proceed 
step by step as directed. Not the novice alone, but each and 
every man who is about to use a pattern should read the 
instruction through with care. To ignore it is to put aside 
as valueless an important part of the pattern. No two 
diagrams are alike. Each and every one has its own 
characteristics. It is to make these clear and to simplify 
the labor of garment making that directions are printed. 



W hi le our acq uaintanceship has spread like fire through- 
out this vast country and edged its way among many of 
Cloak-makers, Ladies' Tailors and Dressmakers, it is but 
natural that we do not know all the Cloakmakers, Ladie's 
Tailors and Dressmakers or that all of them know us, and 
in order to satisfy the many inquiries we receive each dav 
as regards our school, from the trimmingmen and allothers 
who are seeking enlightment or contemplate taking a course 
of instructions in this trade. We wish to sav that our 
school has the best location and finest facilities for teach- 
ing studen ts in thecity of Chicago and New York, where 
we occupy a large space having large windows to the front, 
t'nis giving U5 tne natural light, a g-reat advantage over 
artificial light. 

lCvery known convenience has been utilized for the con- 
venience of our students. Aside from our office, which con- 
nects with the general office, is a private office for our 
clerical help. Ample wardrobe room is provided for ou- 
students, as well as targe desk situated in the school for 
their own personal correspondence. 

Our instruction room is divided into three distinct de- 
partments viz : Department of Systematical Instructions, 
Department of Coats, Draping" and Individuality. 

Upon entering our school for instructions, the student 
receives his membership certificate, which also holds the 
receipt for tuition fees and the ruiles rnd regulations of 
our school. His first instructions are that of foundational 
principles, variation and measurements for coats. Before 



advancing farther the student must stand preliminary ex- 
aminations on the same, and if he averages up to the stand- 
ard, he will then be given admittance to the grading de- 
partment. There he will start with foundational principles, 
following with the variations and then continue with the 
variations and foundatior, al principles. He will be thor- 
oughly taught measurements and its applications. Here he 
must again stand preliminary examination on all points 
pertaining 10 skirts and positively cannot pass from this 
department unless he averages up to the standard in this 
respi-ct. 

Having passed through this examination, he will gain 
admittance to the Department of Individuality, Fitting- and 
Draping. In this department Mr. Katner assumes personal 
control at all times. Here we also have our tailor shop. In 
this department the students is fully informed as to all 
kinds of manipulations and exaggerations of patterns. 
The trv-on here is thoroughly demonstrated having direct 
facilities in this rescept. In the same department the stu- 
dent must stand his final examination, which cosists of 
general principles on garment cutting, variations, manipu- 
lations and exaggerations, measurements and its applica- 
tion, as well as fitting and constructions, together with all 
the latest styles. 

When he has demonsrated to us satisfactorily, that he 
is able to handle first class trade, lie is given as an evidence 
of his proficiency a diploma, to emphasize our mark of ap- 
proval of his capability. 



INSTRUCTIONS S 

It is not safe for you to assume that you know all that 
we would say. You do not and you cannot. Only by reading 
each diagram can you do both us and yourself justice, and 
only bv following the directions faithfully, can you obtain 
the best results. Following are a few directions, for further 
simplifying the work of cutting and designing. Attention to 
them is important. They are des gned to help all those 
wh se figures are individual or peculiar, as a great many 
of our patrons are abl » to do, and they will undoubtedly 
prove helpful. Cloakmakers, Ladies' Tailors and Dress- 
makers assert that few. if any man fail of some slight diffe- 
rentation from the standard. This being the case changes 
mu^t be made; for all that we or any other pattern purvey- 
ors can do is to supply a perfect model for a perfect or 
standard figure and we have endeavored to make sugges- 
tions for such discrepancies as are m )st likely to occur. But 
clear and comprehensive as we believe these to be they are 



MOULD BE REA.D. 

valueless unless the individual diagram instruction first 
be read and studied. It we say "Lay the front below single 
large perforation straight lengthwise on material", and 
you put it on askew no aftereffect will bring about a well 
hanging skirt. Tf we say: "Fold on lines of perforations 
andstich from each folded edge to form tucks," and you 
assume that lines are to be brought together, only misfortune 
can result. As it is not possible to adopt any formula that 
will meet the needs of all patterns, careful reading of the 
diagram is the first essential and intelligent carrying out 
of the directions is needful to bring about success. Each 
diagram contains its own special instructions together with 
each general one as apply to all patterns. With these 
careful reading- and faithfully followed and following h ; nts 
utilized every Ratner's pattern must and will give entire 
satisfaction. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR DIAGRAMS 



DIAGRAM 1. Draw a line which iscalled bust line. Get 
twice 36 large. Get 5^'nch backwards from 36, 1st allow 
iVoin in front o 36 for which it will give us for canvas, li- 
ning-; & inierlinings. Take your waist measurment on scale 
(A) get your 24 on the very same line as your started your 3<>, 



divide the 24 into halves which is 12, run lines up and 
down. The J4 in. you took off from the 1st 36, put the 
square to the bust line and the £ in. and run a line down. 
Measure this line 8J-2 in. and that is our underarm measure. 
Put this square straight to the underarm mesaute and 



Ranter's UptoDate method of Designing 



measure 8} 2 and draw a line forward. Correspond the top 24 
and the 12 and also the end of 3<> all the way down to waist 
line. Take 7 in. on square on top of bust line where it 
measures 12 and draw a line up till it measures 7. On the 
very same line just made, take 36 from bust line up, using 
scale B. On the underarm line draw a line up ar.d 
measure 9 in. that is called strap measure. From the 36 in 
the front take 12 on scale A that giving- us our neck. From 
this 12 to the 24 in the back divide into halves take '.• in. 
off from from. yet. Draw a line from this '_■ in. to the 9, run 
yi in. down the bust line, and draw a line from this '.- in. to 
the 24 below the bust line. From the 12 you have in the front 
measure 36 large up. From this 36 to the 36 that you have on 
the 7 line, draw a line that it should measure ' 4 of the bust 
line and 1% in. extra. From this line just drawn put the 
square straig-ht to the neck measurment point so that your 
square should rest on the :„• in. that you have allowed in 
the front measure. The way your square lavs, measure your 
neck in front and 1 in. down. Bring- down the square to the 
neck measure and measure the front length. Now corres- 
pond the front leng-th to the underarm leng-th and draw a 
line forward. 

In Back. — Take 1 in. backward from the begin ring- 36, 
rest your square on this inch, 36 and on your 7 or any deptii 
of scye measurment. See that these 3 points correspond. 
Now draw a line all around, leave the square lay and mea- 
sure your neck measure. From the neck measure draw a 
small line J4 inch up. Put the square with N to re^t on 
center and to this y> inch shape it. The line which crossi s 
the 24, take y 2 inch below and put the square with J to 
this y 2 inch and rest on i inch from neck and that will 
shape your shoulder. Measure the front shoulder from the 
point neck about the same amount and "4 inch less yet. 

Arm Eye. — Put the square to the bust line, and to 24 
and to J and draw a line all around. 

Front Part.— Put the square to the ] 2 inch below the 
bust line, and let it rest on the center line from 24 to 12. 
Shape until L keeping your pencil on the same point and 
bring your C up from the curve, then let your square rest 
on the shoulder measure. That finishes our box all comp- 
lete and now we could make any garment we need in it. 
with the exception of diagrams 3, 4 and 5. 

Shaping- Take 2 inch from shoulder in arm hole in 
back, and take 1 inch from the line you have in the back, 
put B, on point in back that you have got the 2 inch and 
let it rest to the 1 inch in the back and draw a line. Put 
H on the Bust line and on the shaping line and let it rest 
on your working line. Put 1 inch from square on working- 
line and measure 24 small. Put your C from square to 
your working line and let the square rest itself on top. 
Take 1 on the square and let the square on top rest on th» 
line you just made. Take 1 inch on square put on your 
C line and measure a^ain 24 small. Put your M on the --'4 
and let it rest to 3 our underarm line, take 1 inch in front 
put your L on square and let it rest to your underarm line 
on top and draw lines. From this L take 24G, use scale C 
make a mark. Let % inch out in the front from the square 
and get small 24 from this 24 to G divide into halves, and 
get % inch on each side. Draw a straight line from the 
24 by resting- the square in point of neck not any higher 
than to bust line and also the very same thing to the next 
line from the last y 2 inch. Now measure from point neck to 
bust line, '4 of your bust plus 2 inch that will give you the 
height of the bust. Draw aline enssways, now put the 
square with I to the ) 2 inch and let it rest on crossline point. 
Draw a line from I to 6 and then move thp square down 
ind let Mrest on crossline and shape it. Second dard alike. 
For Hips.— Let your square rest with top to waist line 
ind draw a line down from last inch. Draw all your work- 
ing lines down. Measure from front waist line band 12 and 



correspond with your back lines. If in the back waist 
line is taken out 1 inch so take 34 lllcn on tne hip line. 
When the back is an inch in waist line the width, so take 
\y 2 inch on hip line, always y 2 inch more than the top. 

For side body-Take - ; 4 in. on hip outside the line and 
1 inch on the 12 line, correspond the 24 with the inch by 
drawing a straight line, shape it with letter H to waist line. 
For the same side body take i 4 inch in the line on hip 
line and correspond all the way down a straight line, shape 
it by letter I corresponding to waist line. 

2nd side body.- Take 1 in. on each side outside the line 
and 1 '4 inch on each side of the 12 inch. Draw straight 
lines and shape it by letters K & J as diagram shows. 

Front. — Measure as much as you have in the waist line 
and '4 inch more on the hip line. Draw a straight line. 

Dard. — Draw a straight line from the last y 2 inch all- 
way down, measure on waist line and always y 2 inch more 
on hip line. Draw a straight line. Put the square yi i ncn 
in line of G, and draw a straight line from 6 to 12. shape it 
by putting letter LtoG. Measure your hip back and front 
till you get your rig-ht measurement, as much as on 6, 
always yi inch more on 12, shape it by putting letter F. 
For front allow l'.j inch on bust line, 1 inch in waist line, 
and 1 ' s inch on hip line, shaping according your diagram 
this being for tight fitting- and not for fly front. If for 
fly front so take lyi in. and drawstraight line. (Shape and 
collar). Get y 2 inch on each side of point neck, the forward 
'_• is for the lay off line. Draw a line any length of your 
shape wanted by resting- on the forward '_• inch Rest the 
square to this line and to the inch below the 12. shape ycur 
shape any way you prefer. 

Collar. — Rest your square to the p int of shape and 
the % inch in point of neck. Shape it accordingly. 

DIAGRAM 2. Box same as first one. Take 1 inch for 
the width of back in wast line and divide into halves. 
Divide your shoulder into halves, re^t your square to the 
half shoulder and to the '■_. inch in the back. Draw a line 
to bust line only, rest your square with letter Con working 
line, correspond it to to the line you drew from the half 
shoulder. Put your square with letter I to the inch on the 
back and rest it on the same line as C. Side bodies same 
as first diagram. 

Front. — Get \y> inch from the underarm lineand shape 
it with letter L bv resting it to the underarm on top. Take 
24G on the 1 'j, plus 1 inch using scale C. Take 24 small 
from the front line, rest your square to this 24 and 1 inch 
back from point of neck, draw a line to bust line only. 
< let your height of the bust and draw a crossline. Rest 
letter I to the 24G line and correspond it to your cross ine 
height of bust, by shaping it with letter M. Divide your 
shoulder into half, put your C letter on the half and let 
your square rest to M. Shape, front, collar and hip's as first 
diagram. 

DIAGRAM 3, 4 and 5. Divide the shoulder into as 
many spaces as seams needed. In box from diagram 3, 
take in waist line -' 4 inch out. For back 1 inch in width. 
Get 'j inch from this inch. Take lj4 inch on square and 
put on this l / 2 inch and get 24 small. All pieces alii e 
Take 1 inch on square and put on front part, then get 24 
small. The rest the same as the first diagram, with the 
exception of y> inch on each side, in te: d of % inch which 
was allowed, shape it accordingly. Diagram 4 and 5, 
take l /& inch out in the back, 1 inch for the width of back 
in the fourth and ^ ,or th e width of back in the fifth. 
The outs the same as in third. For fourth take 2 inch on 
'■_• inch and get your 24 and the rest all alike For fifth 
take 2}4 in. on J / 2 inch and get your 24 and the rest all like 

Hips — 3, 4 and 5 alike. The width of back's should al- 
ways be y 2 in. wider than in the waist lire. The sides, rest 



Ratner's UKo°Date method of Designing 



the square to the ' 2 inch all the time, and draw a line from 
6 to 12 with a trifle wider than shape with letters H and I, left 
to right and right to left. Shape and collar alike. 

Diagram 6. Until waist same thing as 2nd Coat. For 
ripple take 41 small from waist line plus 1 inch to 41 length. 
Get 12 from the 41 up and use as a pivot. Put your pencil 
about l /> inch above waist line and the finger on 12 inch, sweep 
it backward that it should strike the dart point. On 41 and 
1 inch sweep the same. Measure in waist as your 3 parts meas 
ure. and on hip line as much as hi]) measures. Allow for 
pleats. For front take l / 2 inch off from waist line and allow 
Ip2 on bust line, draw a line from iG to jG in. all way clown, 
shape according to diagram. 

Diagram 7. Until waist same as 2nd coat. Below waisl 
3 inches. Divide accordingly, it should measure 7 inches less 
than the full hip 1 r 3J^ less than G of the hip. (Fur skirt.) 
your square 1 . > the 3 inch in the front straight with the 
front line. Get twice 40 large, the 2nd 40 divide into half and 
rest your square mi the line 41 > where you have the half and 
run a line up. Measure 40 small phis 1 ' _, inches. Draw a 
line fri m the 3 inch in front to this 1 ' _> inch, shape according 
t 1 diagram. Front same as diagram 6. 

Diagram 8. Box same thing as 1st coat. Get 2 in. out 
of back and use 24 large. \t your 24 on the bust line gel 1 ! 1 
in. up. put your letter K. by resting the square mi 24 that you 
made in waist line. Put 11 on bust, line and rest on working 
line, finish side body as usual. Take I y> in. in front and 
shape with letter L. Take Y\ in. off from waist line, rest the 
square at i 1 /? in. in bust and to the J4 draw a line. Shape hips 
according. Shape and collar alike. 

Diagram 9. Mux same as 1st. In this diagram we have 

1 'V:-c: Chap coats. Take l l /\ in. from the underarm line 

end run a line all way down. Place the square with L and M 

1 tl e 24 and to the front line ami rest it on top to the P4 in. 

er f r a dart, run the dart into pocket, that finishing one 

_ in. on each side and shape. At front take off 

': in. in waist line. Place the square at point of bust and 

draw a line up and down all the way to shoulder. From this 

1 ne allow as much as you want and take so much from the 

G r the next coat, the same witli the exception of the dart at 

Now tile dart is at the side. Take about 12' j in. from 

■'■ le, an 1 3G in. from working line in side. Take about 

n. fn m the underarm seam on front. Draw a line from 

here to the 12G, corresponding with the 3G. Take nut G in. 

1 each side of line on waist line, also '4 in. on each side on 

bust line. As much as was taken nut id' bust line allow on 

ide. Finish front and collar alike. 

Diagram 10. Box same as 1st. Divide shoulders into 
half and measure the back G in. wider than the side. The 
width of back in waist line should he 2 in. From this 2 in. 
i ' 1 in. and shape with G and I. Take 2 in. on square, place 
on G and get 24 large; shape with M resting of top of under- 
arm line. Take 1 in. out for front, place 24 G mi waist line, 
plus 2 in. for a dart. In front yet 24 small and 1 in. and shape 
acci rding. Collar and shape alike. 

Diagram 11. Prince Albert. 2 in. below waist. Work 
tl e same as diagram 7, with the exception of measuring 9 in. 
smaller, the hip instead of 7 and 4 1 .. instead of 3^ in. Com- 
mence skirt same as diagram 7 with the exception of not allow- 

1 in. on top for shaping. Measure '>o in. in length, draw 
iv '.king line in back. Measure from 60 in. outside the work- 
ing line, 40 small, correspond with large 40. Divide top .if 
skirt In 3 parts, take out 2 darts according to hip measure. 
For front take out G in. in waist line, correspond with point 
1 ' List line. For allowance take 2 in. waist line and 3 in. bust 
line. Shape accordingly. 

Li: gram 12. Prince Albert. Work to waist as second 
c . t. Fi r skirt measure on front 41 small, and deposit your 



square to this line and t 1 the 41 small, run a long line, measure 
twice 41 large. At the first 41 put your square on the line and 
i" the 41, draw a line up, measure small 41 plus 2) . j in. Put 
your square in the point of the waist line in front and to the 
111. line, and draw a line. Measure this line and l /± of the 
waist plus 5 in. for darts. Divide this into 4 equal spaces. 
Shape front as diagram 1 1 . 

riigram 13. Reglen's Goat. Make second coat all com- 
plete. Take abi ut 1 in. in center of hack above bust line and 
use as a pivot. Place finger on pivol point and pencil on arm 
hole about 2 in. above bust line and sweep it to come in point 
neck. For front take about 2 in. above bust, and use as a 
pivot. Put pencil on letter 1, and sweep it to come in point 
neck. 

Diagram 14. Box same as ist. Take in waist line about 
1 in. fi r back and i ] 4 in. for front; draw Straight lines from 
to]) of underarm to these points. Take' square and place to 
the fr it shouldei and about 3G in. below bust line in center 
back. Draw a 1G:' G I ul ler about 5 in. and measure 36 

small, then shape it. which finishes the front cape. For the 
back, place the square again to the shoulder and rest it aboul 
1 G in. in front below bust; draw a line, measure 3') small, and 
finishes the back. Collarle — . 

Diagram 15. Loose, Pony and Circular. Follow direc- 
tions according to other directions and shape it according t 1 
the diagram. 

Diagram 16. A Coat with sleeves all in one piece. Make 
as 2nd coat, till complete, then work the shoulders as diagram 
14. Finish the sleeves with your own idea. 

Diagram 17. Make first diagram front and second dia- 
gram back. For Cape. — From the 12 draw a line 1 in. down. 
I "raw line from this inch forward and measure from the 12-36 
large and 36 -mall, depi sit the square at 3,0 small and straight 
with the line; draw it all the way down. Measure iS in. in 
li tigth, depi sit the square at r8 in., draw a line backward and 
f rward. Takeoff 1 in. or tG hi. in front for the cape. Meas- 
es 36 large on the 18 in. line, commencing from the 
" it. Correspond the last 36 in the hack with the 36 small 
in the iS in. line. Shape from shoulder to this 36. Round 
\ ur back shi ulder a little, measure the back as much as want- 
e I and ci rrespond with the cape phis 1 ' _, in. for fullness. 

Di.gram 18. Single and Double Breasted Vest. Make- 
fro t as din-ram 1, with the exception of allowing the allow- 
ani this judging yourself. The back a regular Prince Chap 
hack with a dart in the middle. 

Diagram 19. Make the second coat all complete and any 
length you prefer. Round the front piece and round the front 
side piece 1 11 the dart around the waist line. Measure as much 
as needed for hi]). 

Diagram 20. Box same as 1st. Shaping in back and 
underarm as Prince Chap No. 2. In front allow 2 in. longer 
and then that will give us the fullness for the blouse. For 
a shirt waist allow 3 in. longer. 

Diagram 21. Seamless Shirt Waist, Russian Blouse or 
Eton. Shape by judgment. 

Diagram 22. Make back and sides same as loose coat, 
front as first coat. Any length you desire. 

Diagram 23. Tight-fitting Wrapper. Pack and sides 
same as Vests. Front as first coat. Shape according to dia- 
gram. If for gathering, allow 5 in. in front. Shape for yoke. 

Diagram 24. IMake the hack of first coat, front of second 
coat, work by measurement 46. Two underarm pieces divided 
to your desire. 

Diagram 25. Plain tight-fitting Sleeve. Draw a straighl 
line up and down. Get 36 small, divide in half and G in- 
higher. The way the square rests yet 14 in, from 14 in. get 
[O. Fn 111 10 take 2 in. up, draw lines from j _, in. lower 36, 



Ramcr's Up=€o=Datc method of Designing 



14 and 10 backwards. On the l / 2 in. rest the square, measure 
36 large and 3 in. On 36 small take 2]/ 2 in. and divide in half. 
Draw a line from the center 234 to 3 inches and get center. 
On the 14 take 1^2 in. for top sleeve, 2 in. for under sleeve, 
and from this 2 in. get 36 small I in. and from this inch \ l /z in. 
for top sleeve. On the 10 in. line get 63/2 in. Shape accord- 
ingly. 

Diagram 26. The same kind of sleeve with the exception 
of allowing 36 small by the 3 inches on top line. Shape accord- 
ing to diagram. The straight lines are for pleats if you want 
them. 

Diagram 27. Same as 25. All complete except to divide 
the center on top sleeve and measure 6 inches or else as much 
as your shoulder measures on a regular coat. 

Diagram 28. Top same as 26 except strap drawn from 
head and darts allowed. In elbow get 2.y 2 in. for top sleeve, 
2 in. for under sleeve, 36 small also for under sleeve from 
this 36, 2.y 2 in. Shape according to diagram. 

Diagram 29. Shirt Waist Sleeve. Draw a line, get 36 
small, 14, 10, and 3 and 2 in. up from the 10. On 36 draw a 
line backwards, get J/2 of the arm side and J4 in. back. Draw 
a line from this x / 2 in. to the point of 36 small, get center of 
this line for pivot. Shape according to diagram. 

Diagram 30. I 'lain Sleeve without an under sleeve. From 
36 large and 3 in. run down a line to correspond with the line 
36 small in front. Get 36 small for under sleeve. Shape to 
diagram. 

Diagram 31. Leg of Mutton. Draw a line, get 18 in. 
in length, divide into half. On top of 18 in. draw a line higher, 
take 1 in. below for pivot. On this 18 in. take 36 large and 
2 in., get y 2 in. back from the 2 in. and sweep from the pivot. 
Draw a line from the l / 2 in. to the pivot point. Shape it ac- 
cordingly. 

Diagram 32. Work same as 31 and by the 18 in. line 
take 3 in. instead of 2 in. Divide this line in half and draw 
a line up. Measure 36 and 1 in. down. Shape to diagram. 

Diagram 33. Top same as 29. Bottom take 12 in. in 
length, from the 12 take 2 in. up and shape according to dia- 
gram. 

Diagram 34. Take 36 small, 2 in. up and from this 36 
take 14 in., 3, 10, and 2 up. From the lower 36 draw a line. 
Take 1-36 large and 1-36 small. One inch back draw a line 
to the 2 in., get center from this line and draw a long line by 
placing the square to this line, which will give the pivot. Shape 
according to the diagram. 

Diagram 35. Sheering. Top same as 34 except 3 in. 
larger and length as much as you want for sheering. Shape 
to diagram. 

Diagram 36. Angel Sleeve. Draw a line in center of 
paper up and down. Take % of arm eye, from this third draw 
a line backward and forward. Take on each side y 2 arms eye 
and 1 in. up, draw lines according to your diagram. 

Diagram 37. Children's Coat. Draw a line, get twice 
bust measure size plus 2 in. In the back take waist measure 
and then from this waist measure to the 2nd bust measure ; di- 
vide into half. Shape accordingly. 

Diagram 38. Children's Sleeve. Draw a line and go by 
small measurment as diagram shows. Shape accordingly. 

Diagram 39. Children's Leg of Mutton Sleeve. Go by 
same small measurement. Shape accordingly. 

Diagram 40. Children's Bishop. Go by small measure- 
ment as picture shows. Shape accordingly. 

Diagram 41. Cape. Draw line in a square. Get the neck 
measure on both sides, draw a straight line from one to an- 



cther. Measure again neck measure. This last measurement 
is our pivot for sweeping the flare and the neck. 

Diagram 42. Make a regular cape and shape a sailor 
collar as in diagram. 

Diagram 43. Regular Cape. Shape for Collarette ac- 
cording to diagram. 

Diagram 44. Regular Cape. Shape for fancy sailor 
collar, accordingly. 

Diagram 45. Opera Cape. Shape according to diagram 
and extra cape for collarette. 

Diagram 46. Collars and Storm Collars. 

Diagram 47. Seven Gore Skirt with Flare. Draw a line, 
measure 6 and 12 in. down, from the 6 measure the hips on 
scale 20 to 54. Measure this way 4 times. At 12 in. the first 
box measure J4 in. more than hip measure, 2nd J4 in. more, 
3rd 1 in., and the 4th \\% in., that means more than the small 
hip measure. Back pleats allow according to your judgment. 
In front take off 1 in. and shape the waist. It could be male 
any skirt by not cutting a new pattern. For large stomach or 
for a woman in a family way allow 1 in. higher in front and 
1 in. lower in back. Shape accordingly. 

Diagram 48. Very same box only divided in a 9 gore 
with side pleats. Shape according to diagram. 

Diagram 49. Circular Skirt. Draw a line, measure 6 and 
12 in., take 41 small from the 6, pivot at the beginning of the 
line, commencing at 6 and sweeping backward. The same 
from 41 and 12, measure waist, hip and also all the lengths if 
you prefer with pleats or without pleats. Shape according to 
diagram. 

Diagram 50. Very same as 49 only shaped into a yoke, 
and could be made as many points as preferred. 

Diagram 51. Regular 9 Gore Skirt shaped into a Prin- 
cess effect. Shape according to diagram. 

Diagram 52. Princess Robe. Make a regular box, di- 
vide the back into 3 pieces by dividing J4 of the waist, divide 
the front into 4 pieces also by 34 of the waist line. The hip, 
take 34 of the hip measure and divide into 3 parts. The front 
hip, take 34 of the hip measure divide into 4 parts. Shape ac- 
cordingly. 

Diagram 53. Make a plain skirt box. Follow instruc- 
tions on diagram. 

Diagram 54. Make a skirt box and follow instructions 
on diagram. 

Diagram 55. Pair of pants and riding breeches ; follow 
instructions on diagram. 

Diagram 56. Front of side saddle riding hahit. Follow 
the instructions by the measuring out with the large square 
with )\ of the regular size. 

Diagram 57. The back of a side saddle riding habit. 
Follow the instructions as given in 56, also leggins. 

Diagram 58. Collars, cuffs, girdles, collarettes. Shape 
to diagram. 

Diagram 59. Back measurement. 

Diagram 60. Front and sleeve measurement. 

How to measure with the small square. — Always figure 
the small square 34 of the large square. For instance, if 36 
measures 9 inches on large square, on small square it will 
measure 36 234 inches. 



Kamcr's UpCo-Date method of Designing 



How to get sizes from 30-48. 

Take bust measure and divide it into 3 parts }$ of bust 
is called "Neck Measure" ?j of bust measure is called 
"Waist Measure." Plus 5 inch to bust measure, is hip 
measure. 

How to get depths of Scye underarm and strap measure: 
For an example size 36. 

Bust measure divided into 3 parts ' j of bust measure is 

neck measure 12. 
-'3 of bust measure is waist measure 24. 

Plus 5 inch to bust measure is hip measure 41 . 

How to get underarm depth of Scye and Strap. 

See divided measurement. 

To get small bust measure. 

Take neck measure from bust measure in point of 
front bust . 

USE SCALE A OR I. 



TICKET MEASUREMENT. 



Date 

Name 

Street 

Town 

Coat 

Suit 

Deposit . 



..State.... 
..Skirt.... 
..Price... 
.Balance. 



Lining Color. 

Trimmings 

Order 

Goods 

Plate 



No. 



Goat 

Dept of scye Length of Waist. 

Length of Coat 

Width of Back 

Strap 



No. 



Bust 


Waist 


Neck 


Hip 


Underarm 


Depths of 
Scye 


Strap 


Small Bust 


30 


20 


10 


30+5 


8 


C.', 


S'A 


10 


32 


21 


11 


32+5 


8 


6* 


8* 


11 


34 


23 


ii y 2 


34+5 


8M 


QH 


8 3 !< 


11* 


36 


34 


12 


36+5 


8 1 2 


7 


9 


12 


38 


25 


1 2 J -2 


38+5 


8 H 


7 3 l 

' 18 


9* 


13 


40 


26 


181, 


4O+5 


8 u 


7 3 

' :8 


10 


13* 


42 


27 


14 


42+5 


8 


t 


10* 


H 


44 


28 


15 


41+5 


T '|2 


7 


io 7 ! 8 


I4* 


46 


30 


16 


46+5 


8 


7 


11* 


15* 


48 


31 


17 


48 5 


7 


7 


12 


16 



Under Arm . 

Bust 

Waist 

Hip 



Front 

Neck 

Sleeve Inside Seam. 

First Fitting 

Second Fitting 

To be Ready 

Tailor 

Remarks 



Measures for Skirts. 



Skirt 



No. 



Waist 
Hip ■■ 
Front 
Side.. 
Back • 



22 


24 


25 


26 


26 


2 7 


29 


30 


32 


34 


36 


39 


41 


43 


45 


45 


48 


50 


52 


56 


56 


59 


40 


41 


41 


45 


42 


42 


41 


41 


40 


40 


40 


43 


43 


43 


43 


44 


44 


43 


43 


42 


42 


42 


43 


43 


43 


43 


44 


44 


43 


46 


42 


42 


42 



61 
40 
42 
42 



Goods 

Plate 

Waist 

Hip 

Fro nt 

Size 

Back. ■■■ 
Kmarki 



Measures for Children. 



Weight 
Year- • ■ 
Height- 
Bust — 
Waist ■ • 



1 5 lb. 
X A year 
1-6 inch 
18 inch 
18 inch 



■_) 2 
1 

19 
19 



29 # 

•_) 

1.8# 
20 
20 



3714 

4 

2 

22 

24 



42 

6 

2fi l A 

26 
23^ 



45 



2. it 
27 
23 



55 
10 
3.1 
29 
24 



70 
12 
3.4 
30 
23 



89 

13 

3.6^ 

33 



100 

16 

4.8 

34 

23^ 



Measures for Ladies Pants. 

1 waist to chain 10 inches, 2 chair to bottom 30 inches, 
that gives the inside lenghts Waist 24, hip 41, knee 19, 

bottom 15. 

For breeches take from waist to chair 10 inches and 
from waist to knee 26 inihes and knee to calf 10 inches 
including opening-, Waist 24, hip 41 

For riding habit on the saddle take measures from 
waist to knee & knee to heel of shoe waist and hip as above. 



Measurement. 

For diagram 59-60. Diagram Number 59. 
All heavy lines on diagrams are measures : 

1 depth of scye, 2 Length of back to waist 3 all length, 
4 width of back. 

Diagram Number 60. 
1 Strap from neck bone to arms eye. 2 underarm, 
3 bust, 4 waist, 5 hip, 6 front length from neck to waist 
7 neck . 

SLEEVE: 

Sleeve on diagram 59, 1 shoulder to Elbow. Elbow to 
writs. For tight fitting take muscle elbow and wrist. 



Ratner's UpODate method of Designing 



HOW TO ADJUST SKIRTS TO STOUT FIGURES. 



The stout woman, given to embonpoint, isfar too often 
the victim ot ill-fitting- skirts which accentuate in place of 
reducing- apparent size. Cloak-makers, Ladies' 

Tailors and Dressmakers seldom understand just how the 
difficulty can be overcome yet the symmetry of the pattern 
preserved. The proper method is to secure a pattern of 
the correct hip measurement, to cut carefully and to stitch 
all seams with precision, then to fit the skirt to the figure. 
To do this it must be pinned smoothly and snugly round 
the hips, with the front gore allowed to drop down until 
it hangs perfectly straight, and the fulness laid in plaits at 
the back and pinned into place. To retain this essential 
position of the front gore those at sides and back must be 
raised as far as necessary. When the front gore hangs 
satisfactorily and the skirt is smooth over the hips the 
inverted plaits, or back edges, must be carefully brought 
together so that they meet exactly in the centre. The 
crosses and perforations indicate the size of plaits required 
for the perfect figure. As the stout woman is apt to be 
somewhat out of the prescribed line the plaits must be 



adjusted to her needs. When properly finished their edges 
should meet and fall in straight lines. As soon as the plaits 
are adjusted to give that result they must be pinned firmly 
into place and the fitting of the hip darts or seams under- 
taken. When the skirt is fitted with darts they should be 
pinned up, at the indicated points, to exactly fit the hips, 
then stitched and pressed flat. When no darts are used the 
seams must be adjusted from the hips up, either taken in 
or let out as required, until perfect smoothness is the result. 
When that is done the skirt must be carefully stitched and 
pressed, then again put on the figure and pinned to the belt, 
when the lower edge can be trimmed off as required and 
finished. 

KM? SLENDER FIGURES. 

Slender figures require different treatment. As a rule, 
there is no need to drop the front; but the hips should be 
fitted exactly as are those of the stout woman, the plaits at 
back adjusted with the same care and the belt attached be- 
fore the lower edge is touched, 



HOW TO MAKE CHANGES CORRECTLY. 



Anyone whose measurements are correct by the re- 
cognized standard can use our patterns without alterations; 
but there are many figures that are over broad for the 
height, over long of waist, or over short from waist down; 
whose arms are longer or shorter than the standard requires. 
For all such some changes must be made. 

Too often the Cloak-makers, Ladies' Tailors and 
Dressmakers simply cuts off or adds to length at the lower 
edge. To do either is to m^r the cymmetry of the pattern 
and to destroy the effect. The proper method is to add to. 
or take from, midway ot the length of the portion, what- 
ever it may be. 

If the skirt be too long, lay a tuck in each gore just 
above the knees before laying the pattern on the cloth. 



If it be too shoort, cut each gore in two at the same point 
and insert as wide a piece as required, then lay the pattern 
on the material as directed. 

If the waist be too long, lay a tuck as wide as neces- 
sary in each portion midway between the arm's eye and the 
lower edge. If it be too short, insert a piece of the neces- 
sary width at the same line. 

If the sleeve be too long, measure the arm to ascertain 
how much, then lay one tuck midway between the elbow 
and the wrist edge, one midway between the elbow and 
the upper edge, each taking up half the extra length. If 
a two-piece sleeve, lav tucks in each portion. It the 
sleeve be too short, insert strips of necessary width at the 
same points. By this method the outline is preserved while 
the desired length is easily obtained. 



HOW TO INSURE A SATISFACTORY SKIRT. 



Every skirt should be joined to the belt before being 
finished at the lower edge. No error is more common than 
reversing this last procedure and none more unfortunate. 
Every human figure has its peculiarities. It seldom happens 
that the two sides are exactly alike. Again circular por- 
tions sag. It is not possinle to make a skirt hang with 
perfect evenness by merely measuring it before attaching 
to the belt. It must look even when worn, whatever the 
sides measure, and such result can be obtained only by 
following this rule. 

Short skirts for the street happily have become general, 
but to secure anything like a graceful effect they must be 
perfectly even. Nothing could be more fatal to their 
success than an irregular or dropping outline at the lower 
dge. To get the best results it is necessary to stitch all 
the seams, press the plaits if there are any, to adjust the 
skirt over the hips as required and to join it to the belt, 



previous to finishing the lower edge. The skirt should 
then be placed upon the wearer and measured from the 
floor up by means of a wooden rule, these measurements 
being taken at intervals of a few inches for its entire width . 
If the length is desired to be two inches from the floor the 
skirt should be marked with chalk at exactly that distance 
as indicated by the ruler, and these markings should be 
taken with exactness. The skirt can then be turned up 
and basted with absolutely certainty of evenness and the 
hem or facing stitched. If the skirt is to be shorter or 
longer it is necessary only to mark at the given point, but 
two inches is the accepted length for the season and the 
one most generally liked. If it is a bit difficult to measure 
Irom the floor an easier way can be found by allowing the 
wearer to stand upon a table when it becomes quite simple 
to measure from the tab'e up and to make the requisite 
markings. 



Rattler's Up°€o°Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 1. 



Ratncr's Up-Co»Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 2. 



Ranter's Up-Co-Datt method of Designing 




Diagram No. 3. 



&e- & 66 6 l 



Rattier's Up-€o-Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 4. 



Ranter's Up=€o=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 5. 



Ratner's Up=€o=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 6. 



Ratner's Up-Co-Datt method of Designing 




Diagram No. 7. 



Rattler's Up-Co-Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 8. 



Ratner'$ Up=€o-Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 9. 



Ratncr's Up-€c*Date method o,f Designing 




Diagram No. 10. 



18 



Raincr's Up-€o-Date method of Designing 




Diagram 11. 



Ratner's Up-Co-Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 12. 



Ranter's Up-CO'Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 13. 



Ratner's Up-€o-Date method of Designing 




Diagram 14. 



Ranter's Up-to=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 15. 



Ratner's Up°Co=Date method of Designing 



i 




Diagram 16. 



Rattier's Up-tO'Datc method of Designing 




Diagram No. 17. 



Ranter's Up=€o-Date method of Designing 














Ratner's Up-ODate method of Designing 




Diagram No. 18. 



36 



Ratner's Up=ODate method 0|f Designing 




Diagram 19. 



Ranter's UKo=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 20. 



28 



Rattiers Up CoDate method of Designing 




Diagram 21. 



Ratner's Up-Co-Date method or Designing 




ram 22. 



Rattler's Up=to-Date method of Designing 




c-o 



Diagram 22. 



Ratner'$ Up»to=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 23. 



Ratner's Up-Co=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 23. 



Ramcr's iip-Co-Date method o.f Designing 




Diagram 24. 

Improportion Coat. 



Rattier's Up=Co=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 25. 



Rattier's Up-€o=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 26. 



Rattler's Up Co=Date method of Designing 




Diagram 27. 



Ranter's Upto-Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 28. 



Gamer's Up=to*Date method of Designing 




Diagram 29. 



Ranters Up-Ce-Date method of Designing 



cfc^-^ 



C^m- 




jQ 



Copyright 1908 by 
H.W. Ratner 



1« 




Diagram No. 30. 



Ranter's Up-Co-Datt method of Designing 




Diagram 31. 



Ratiier's Up=€o=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 32. 



Ratner's Up=Co=Datc method of Designing 




Diagram 33. 



Ranter's Up-ODate method of Designing 




Diagram No. 34. 



Ratncr's Up=to=Date method of Designing 




Diagram 35. 






<>> 



o 



II 



w 

^ 

o 




CO 

o 

S 

Sm 
•OJD 

03 



Ratttcr's Up-to-Date metDod of Designing 




Diagram No. 37. 



RatiKi"$ Up-tO'Date method of Dc$ipjn£ 




Diagram 38. 



Ratner's UpCoDate method of Designing 




Diagram No. 39. 



Ranter's Up-ODate method of Designing 




Diagram 40. 



.8 



Ranter's UKo=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 41. 



Ranters Up-to-Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 42. 



Ratiier's Up=to*Date method of Designing 




Diagram 43. 



Ratncr'$ Up-to=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 44. 



Ratner's Up=Co=Date method of Designing 




Diagram 45. 



RatiKr'$ Up=CO'Date method of Designing 




Copyright 1908 by 
H. W. Ratner 





Diagram 46. 



Katncr's Up-Co-Datc method of Designing 




Diagram No. 47. 



Ramer's Up=Co=Datc method of Designing 




Diagram 48. 



Ramer's Up-Co-Datt method of Designing 




Diagram No. 49. 



57 



Ratncr's Up=to=Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 50. 



58 



Ranter's UpCo-Date method of Desipittfl 




Diagram 51. 



Ratner's Up=to*Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 52. 



Ratner's Up-Co-Datc method of Designing 




Diagram 53. 



Ratncr's Up=to*Date method of Designing 




Diagram 54. 



Ratncr's UKo-Date method of Designing 




Diagram No. 55. 



63 



Ratncrs Up-Co-Date method of Designing 




Diagram 56. 



Ratner's Up-Co-Datt method of Designing 




Diagram No. 57. 



65 



Ratncr's Up-Co-Dat* m«tbodjfJ)e$ipin£ 




Diagram 58. 

UOFC 



66 



Ratner's UptoDaR method of Designing 




Diagram No. 59. 



67 



Ranter's Up=to=Date method of Designing 




Diagram 60. 



68 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

Ml 



